Method of making force lasted shoes



June 1, 1948. s. 1.. ERLICH METHOD OF MAKING FORCE LASTED SHOES FiledFeb. 12, 1945 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 lzweno June 1, 1948. L. ERUH 2,442,559

METHOD 0F MAKING FORCE LASTED SHOES Filed Feb. 12, 1945 3 Sheets-Sheet 21220921303 JauZ L. Ewzalciw,

fliffoz aaeys June 1, 1948. s. 1.. ERLICH 2,442,559

METHOD QF MAKING FORCE LASTED SHOES Filed Feb. 12, 1945 s Sheets-Sheet sPatented June 1, 198

UNITED- STATES PATENT OFFICE 1VIETHOD OF MAKING FORCE LASTED SHOES SaulL. Erlich,

Malden, .Mass assignor of onehalf to Abraham M. Rogofi, Boston, MassApplication renum- 12, 1945, Serial No. 577,575 1 Claim. (01. 12-142)This invention relates to a method of making force lasted in shoes,particularly womensshoes having open toes made by the cement process andhas still not been commercially practical to elim-' inate the lastingstep and still obtain shoes which will properly fit the foot and presentan attractive appearance.

It is the object of my inventionto provide an improved method of makingshoes of the character described which will eliminate the necessity ofskilled labor in lasting the shoes.

According to my invention, the lining layer is first cemented to theouter layer of the upper in the fiat, leaving, however, free marginalportions. A sock lining is then stitched to the free marginal edges ofthe lining layer in such a manner as to fix the size of the vamp beforeit is slipped upon the last. This step of assembling the vamp upon thelast is then a relatively simple operation which might be performed byunskilled labor as no pulling-over is required. The free marginal edgesof the outer layer of the upper may be easil turned dOWn and cemented tothe inner side which is laid over the sock lining. The shoe may then befinished in any suitable manner.

Further objects and advantages of my improvements will be more readilyapparent from the following descriptions of preferred embodimentsthereof as illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 is a bottom view of one half of the upper showing the lininglayer cemented in-posi tion on the outer layer;

Figure 2 is a similar part of the upper;

Figure 3 is a bottom view showing the two parts of the upper after theyhave been attached at the toe;

Figure 4 is an enlarged fragmentary view showing the underneath side ofthe toe-portion of the vamp after binding strips have been attached andalso illustrating the manner in which a free marginal edge of the lininglayer may be turned up for the subsequent stitching operation;

Figure 5 is a bottom view showing the vamp bottom ,view of the otherafter the sock lining has been stitched to the lining layer and'the vamphas been assembled ona last;

Figure 6 is a upon the last after outer layer of upper have cemented inposition;

Figure '7 is a cross-sectional view taken through the toe of the shoeillustrating the'manner in bottom view showing the shoe the marginaledges of the been turned in and j which the marginal edges of the outerlayer of the vamp may be turned over a thin insole;

Figure 8 is a view similar to Figure 7 but showing a modification inwhich an invisible platform has been inserted.

Figure 9 is a side view of a shoe with a concealed platfrom showing theheel portion of the sock lining ready to be cemented; Figure 10 is aview similar to Figure 4 but showing a modified method of freeing thelining flaps; Figure 11 is a view similar to Figure 10 but showing astill further modification; and

Figure 12 is a side view of a completed shoe having a platform; and

Figure 13 is a fragmentary side view of a shoe having a half platform.

The-parts of-the outer and lining layers of'the vamp are first outaccording .to' pattern such as to the shapes illustrated in which I0 andI2 are the two halves of the outer layer of the upper, while prise thetwo halvesof the lining layer offithe upper. Where the shoes iscustomary to provide a indicated I8. The lining to the outer layer Illwhile the lining layer It is similarly cemented to the outer layer I2.The marginal edge 20 of the part I4 and themarginal edge 22 of part I6are left free and'uncemented and it will be noted that theedges 20 and22 of the lining parts are inwardly spaced relatively to the marginaledges 24 and 2% of the outer part.

In Figures 1 and 2 there are shown cuts or slits 28 and 30 at the toeand 32 and 34 at the back in the lining parts I4 and I6. In this form,the cuts are made perpendicular to the marginal heel-strap portion asfree edges of the lining parts and parallel to the in Figures 1 and '2'I4 and I5 com-' have open backs, it.

layer I4 is cemented the open back and toe edges are suitably finishedsuch as by pressing or French cording. In this step a binding strip 38is attached to the underside of the vamp to cover the seam 36 andextending along the underside exposed edges of the open toe as shown at40. It will now be apparent that the slits 28 and 30 previouslydescribed, permit the binding strip portions 40 to be applied whilestill leaving the flaps 20 and 22 of the lining free to be turned up. Itwill be understood that the rear are similarly finished.

Next a sock lining 42 is stitched to the free'fiflps 20 and 22 of thelining, as shown by the lines of stitching 44 in Figure 5. It that thesock lining is made consist of two layers; one a the visible surface ofthe sock lining and the other a reinforcing lining which is cementedthereto.

The cutting of the patterns for the upper lining and the sock liningfixes the size and shape .of the vamp so that it closely fits the lastwhen assembled thereon. Therefore, it is a relatively simple operationto slip the vamp on to the last. Since the outer layer of the upper iscemented to the lining layer, it does not need to be pulled orstretched. After the upper has been placed on the last, a thin flexibleinnersole 46 having an attached shank stiffener 58 is cemented inposition over the sock lining. The innersole 46 may be a relativelycheap material such as pasteboard. The toe portion of the sock lining 50may be turned over and cemented to the innersole 46 and the marginaledges 24 and 26 of the outer layer of the upper may also be turned overand cemented to the innersole. This is a relatively simple step since itis not necessary to pull and stretch the upper as in customary lastingoperations.

The shoe may then be finished by applying an outsole l2 and heel 53. Ifdesired, before applying the outsole, a platform 54 may be cemented offabric and may in position. The platform will have its exposed edgesfabric-covered in the usual manner. Instead of making the shoe with anexposed platform, a concealed or invisible platform 58 may be used asshown in Figure 8 in which case the marginal portions 24 and 26 of theouter layer of the upper will have been cut to provide a larger amountof lasting allowance. In another form the shoe may be made with a halfplatform 51 as shown in Figure 13.

Referring to Figure 7, it will be noted that the provision of theinnersole 46 allows the stitched edges of the upper lining and socklining to be covered as the marginal portions 24 and 26 are turned inwithout causing a bulge. Thus the inner surface of the shoe remainssmooth since the stitched edges are turned down around the edges of theinnersole as shown in Figure 7.

The cuts or slits 28 and 30 previously described constitute only oneform of freeing the edges of the lining. Figure shows another method inwhich, before applying the binding 40, the corner portions 58 and 60 ofthe lining l4 and 16 are turned back as shown in Figure 10, therebyleavin: the free flaps and 22. One further method 'will be understoodfinished fabric for l0. edges of the upper is illustrated in Figure 11in which slits 62 and 64 have been cut in the lining parts l4 and I6parallel to the free edges thereof so that the end portion 66 of theflap 22 may be turned up before the binding 40 is applied and laidfreely over the binding as shown at the top portion of Figure 11.Instead of slitting or folding, the corners could be cut out but themethods described hold the end portions of the lining more stronglyagainst pulling loose from the binding strips.

Before the heel is attached, the heel part of the last may be pulled outin order to permit folding the free part of the sock lining forwardtoward the toes. The heel part of the last is then inserted and the heelattached. After the last is removed, the free heel part 68 of the socklining 42 is laid down and cemented to the innersole.

The present invention is an improvement over the usual Californiaprocess followed in making platform shoes. In one form of the Californiaprocess, a wrapper is attached to the upper and a wrapping machine mustbe used for pulling the wrapper over the platform.

In my method, the platform, either a full platform, as in Figure 12, ora half platform, as in Figure 13, may be finished by binding the edgesbefore it is applied to the shoe. The wrapping machine is eliminated.The appearance of the shoes made by my method is better made by theCalifornia process since the platform is regular in appearance; that is,the binding is smooth and evenly applied to the platform; whereas in theCalifornia process, the wrapping It should be further understood, thatmy method permits the use of only a half platformand shoes of thischaracter are much desired. The half platform can not be used by theusual California process construction. The half platform may be visibleor concealed inmy method.

I claim:

The method of making an open toe shoe which consists in cementing alining layer to an outer layer to form an upper, the marginal edge ofthe lining layer being free and uncemented, binding the vamp at the opentoe, the binding being sup-- plied in such a manner as to permit turningup the'free and uncemented edge of the marginal lining, then stitching asock lining to the upper lining, inserting a last and finishing theshoe.-

SAUL L. ERLICH.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS than shoes

